Everything You Should Know About Indian Sarees: Drapes

Sarees, One of the Traditional Outfit's From India.  It's a 9yard or 5yard fabric draped around the waist with one end over the shoulder baring the mid riff, usually worn over a petticoat, called lehenga in North, Pavada in South, Parkar or Chaniyo in Gujrat and Maharashtra. Ideally worn with a choli, blouse. It's very graceful and is one of the biggest symbol of Ideal Culture.

As time passed, years after years, cultures have changed and so is the Drape and the fashion in Saree. From 9yards  Kashtaa Sari, To Bengali Drape, to modern 5 yards to eventually the ultra modern Saree Gown. Infact Every Indian Community has its own distinct way of Draping a saree. Not just adorned by Indian Women but by also Hollywood Stars,often spotted in various Award Functions in some of our Drapes.

According to Wikipedia, around 80 Draping Styles have been noted to drape a Saree.

Bengali Style

 1.       Nivi Style: The Most Common and also the traditional way of draping a saree is the one where one end tucked into a petticoat from front and the draped once around the waist and then pleated and formed and tucked in the middle facing left side and then the remaining saree is either pleated or hung over the left shoulder to cover the chest.

2.        Bengali: In  Bengal and Orissa, the saree is draped without pleats. It is wrapped around the waist and brought back to the right side and the pallu is tossed over the left shoulder. Then the pallu is brought from under the right arm and is once again slung over the left shoulder. One can also add a key bunch to the edge to complete this traditional look. Seen in The epic movie Devdas. Starring Ashwariya Rai, as traditional Bengali women.

Gujrati Style

3.       The Gujarati way:  Also known as the seedha pallu, is also seen commonly donned by the women of many northern states like, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Bihar. The first and basic distinction in this style of draping is that here the pleats of the saree face the right, contrary to the others facing left. Also what is distinct about the Gujarati way is that the pallu comes from the backside to the front from the right side. After which it is spread across the chest, and the left edge is tucked in the petticoat at the back. This style works wonders incase your saree has an elaborate border and you want it displayed. Madhuri Dixit's Drape in Didi Tera Dewar Song.

Vidya Balan in Navvari Drape

4.        Kashta/ Navvari:  What’s unusual about draping a saree in the Maharashtra way is that one doesn’t need a petticoat! A nine yard is required, hence the name navvari instead of a usual five-yard sari, the extra length of the saree is drawn up between the legs and worn like a dhoti, and tucked behind at the waist, while the other portion is draped as a pallu over the shoulder or even used to cover the head. Traditionally worn by women in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andra and  even fisher folks of Goa. Lavani Dancers or Vidya Balan in Mala Jau Dey Item Number.

Tamilian Style

Kodagu/ Karnataka Style

5.        Madisar/ Tamilian Way:Like the Maharashtra way, this version also requires a nine-yard saree as opposed to the five-yard one and is worn without a petticoat inside. Once the saree is wrapped around the waist, the pleats are positioned along the left leg and the rest of the saree is taken over the left shoulder, wrapped once again round the waist and tucked on the left side.

6.       Kodagu style: This drape is traditionally confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka,  In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari. Covering the mid riff

Malayali Style

7.        Malayali style/ Mundum Neryathum:  The mundum neryathum is traditionally white or cream in colour and consists of two pieces of cloth, which have a coloured strip at the border known as kara. The piece of cloth that drapes the lower garment is called the mundu. It is worn below the navel and around the hips, similar to the mundu worn by men in Kerala The piece of cloth that is worn as the upper garment is called the neriyathu. One end of the neriyathu is tucked inside the pavadai or petticoat and the remaining long end is worn across the front torso. The neriyathu is worn over a blouse that reaches quite above the breast bone. It is worn diagonally from along the right hips to the left shoulder and across the midriff, partly baring it. The remaining loose end of the neriyathu is left hanging from the left shoulder, A mundum neriyathum is starched before being draped and is worn over a blouse that matches the colour of the border or kara.

8.       Tribal Styles:  Besides the diversity in cullture, we also have many tribes in all the corners of India, each having thier own way of living, draping etc.. One of the common tribal style is the one often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the bust, often wearing without cholis. Goan Gauda and Kunbis,and those of them who have migrated to other states use denthil  way of draping Sari or Kappad,this form of draping is created by tying a knot in the fabric below the shoulder and a strip of cloth which crossed the left shoulder was fasten on the back.  Gond  sari styles is found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body.

The modern india, has a different take on draping the saree with an attitude.

Sonia Gandhi in Crisp Cotton Saree

Adding an oomph with a low waist saree, like our bollywood glam dolls. From decent cuts, to bold, to  halters, to collared, to deep back to deep cleavage showing cuts, Correct Choli adds the oomph and the correct attitude to the saree draped.

 A Saree Drape called Mumtaz Saree  which is  Sharara sari named after Actress Mumtaz for her dance number "Aaj kal tere mere". Sharara, is like a Mermaid Cut skirt, Fitted on the hips and goes A-line from or below the knee. 

Formal wear Sarees are crisp sarees draped in a Nivi, way, with strongly pointed pleats worn with decent no skin show blouses, Our Congress Head, Sonia Gandhi is a perfect example for this look. Hospitality industry made the saree drape even tighter and finely pleated like our Air Hostess from Air India, or The Receiptionist at TAJ, 

The sari has gained its popularity internationally due to the growth of Indian fashion trends globally.

Paris Hilton

Lady Diana, Saree Gown

Saree style gowns are not a very recent innovation. We saw the first gown styles like a saree 2 decades back when Princess of Wales, Lady Diana wore it. The fuchsia coloured gown draped like a saree with a pallu became a rage in the nineties. But slowly, this trend of gowns inspired by the Indian saree style faded away. However, last year, when Paris Hilton arrived in India to launch her handbag store, she wore a pink coloured saree style gown. This brought back the trend of saree gowns styles in motion again. Another exquisite example of gowns that look like a saree was worn by Hollywood celebrity Haydon Panettiere at one of the events in 2012. Saree style gowns basically mimic the fall and drape of a saree. The gowns styled in this way often come with a 'pallu' or a drape handing loose from the shoulders. Even a normal one shoulder gown can be given the look of a saree style outfit if the sleeve is loose like 'pallu'. Singer Shakira has adorned her pregnancy pic in a white color saree gown flaunting her baby bump.

Ashwariya Rai in Sabyasachi Saree at Cannes 

Film

Festival

Fashion designer Suneet Varma once commented,"The saree is the most versatile garment in the world. It can, with a sweep of the head, be conservative or with a flash of the navel, trendy. If you are going for a prayer meeting, all you need to do is to place the pallu over the shoulders or cover your head with it. The same saree, worn a little low to show off the navel, and teamed up with a backless choli, and show a bit of cleavage, can make you the most elegant woman at a cocktail party." 

Designer Shaina NC once commented, "There’s no reason why saris must be worn over a petticoat – I’m wearing mine over trousers. There’s no set rules – take your pleats to the side or over the hip, wear the pallav like a dupatta or try a double or triple sari." 

Designer Sabysachi has got altogether new meaning to modern saree, with celebrities flaunting the traditional weave with a modern look even on international carpets.

The new age saree to the traditional saree, it adorn’s and add’s elegance to a women’s feminity.

Rectangular Body Type: Do's n Dont's

Knowing our body type, makes it easier for us to know what will look good on us. Rectangle body types are one kind of figure that looks chic in a variety of clothing.You  can call it as a boyish or athletic body type, with more straight lines and few curves. Adding femininity to a rectangle figure and creating curves seems challenging, but it's simple to do with the right clothing styles. Hillary Duff, Nicole Kidman, Sheryl Crow, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow are celebrities with this body shape

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Women that have more athletic shapes should wear clothing that highlights their bodies, but yet creates a curvier figure. So one should avoid wide-leg pants that makes your silhouette look too boyish. Snug-fitting skinny jeans, slightly flared boot-cut trousers, Full length leggings, jeggings, Pencil pants and anything fitting can make you look more shapely. Ruffled pants add curves to your body and makes one look good Avoid anything that cuts off the legs, such as capris or midrise pants.

Wrap tops help create the illusion of curves. Detailing or embellishments, such as collars and ruffles, and scoop neck or V-neck or even a sweetheart neckline shirts all work well, to add femininity or may be even create some of them. if you like jackets or blazers, opt for a fitted style that has a cinched-in waist. A buttoned jacket is even better. But a boyish athletic jacket would add on to look even more rectangular.

Layering is also a great solution, like wearing a t-shirt inside your t-shirt or just wearing a sleeveless tshirt on top of another tshirt, this would certainly and definition to your body.

Skirts can be any length, but if you have great thighs show them off in a short style for a womanly look. The traditional A-line skirt works well for rectangular body types and keeps the look soft but definitely avoid straighter looking skirts which only define your length instead of creating a more feminine figure. Full silhouette Skirt is also a great idea, with layers, frills, ruffles, pleats.. the peplum's would also look awesome on a rectangular body to make it look curvier.

The wrap dress is an athletic woman's secret weapon. Tie it up the dress in to highlight the waist and make your shape pop. Choose dresses with drapes, like long length gowns, saree gowns, or even a saree for that matter to add fullness to your figure. Adding a belt to highlight your small waistline is another option. Avoid  dresses that have a square neck or an undefined waist., cz it will juzt make you look more boxy.

To sum up:

DO’s

• Wear Fitted Clothes shaping your waistline

• Angular jackets and feminine peplum's that point to your waist works best.Jackets that fasten with a tie, belt or sash to create a curvy waist look

• Wear top's that emphasize on your shoulder line.

• Wraps, flowy through the waistline, and feminine chiffon reduces the boyish look and add's feminity

• High waisted dresses or adding Belts on High waist will add definition to your shape.

• Straight to slightly flared flat fronted pants

• High placed focal points

• The gentle flare of an A-line skirts is all you need to add shape to your waist.

• Slightly flared pants and Skinny jeans that add shape to your waist

• Accessories that focus the attention to the centre and the top part of your body.

• Fitted Vest with a shirt, blouse or t-shirt underneath to carve into the body.

DON’Ts

• Avoid Clingy Fabrics and Fitted silhouettes that accentuate the rectangle shape

• No Baggy pants, it add's TOMBOY look

• No Big loose tops, gives a square look

• No Narrow skirts

• Avoid Cropped tops

• Dropped waist, lengthens the waistline and blocks the curvier sides of the waist

•  Don't wear Formless three-quarter length jackets and BOXY jackets and even Double breasted Coats; very boyish.  

If you would like us to personally advise you on your Personal Styling, Please feel free to contact us at prieshn@gmail.com or like us on our FB page "Priesh N"

Pear Shaped :)

 

 

The most common body shape is D Pear Shape. As a Pear the widest part of your body is below your waist, around the Hip Area.  Remember one can be Tall, Short, petite heavy or small but still be a pear shaped. Your Fashion Goal is to elongate your figure to reduce or hide your heavy bottoms. It is to Balance hips and shoulders while showing off your curves. The key here is to emphasize top half. For example, if the eye is drawn to your cute top pr awesome jewellery on your neck or a stole it takes off the focus from your heavy bottom.

 


Pear shapes look best in empire-waist dresses that stop just above the knee. A belted shift dress will emphasize your small waist while narrowing your hips and butt. To elongate your legs, pair a strapless dress that flares at mid-thigh with a pointy-toe heel. For a truly savvy daytime look that's sure to turn heads at the workplace, consider a simple suit dress with a structured jacket that falls just to the top of your hip.


The most common body shape is D Pear Shape. As a Pear the widets part of your body is below your waist, around the Hip Area.
   


Remember one can be Tall, Short, petite heavy or small but still be a pear shaped. Your Fashion Goal is to elongate your figure to reduce or hide your heavy bottoms. It is to Balance hips and shoulders while showing off your curves. The key here is to emphasize top half. For example, if the eye is drawn to your cute top pr awesome jewellery on your neck or a stole it takes off the focus from your heavy bottom.

A well padded bra, preferably push up is important as it will balance your upper and lower body a bit more if that's what is needed. A t-shirt but with right length -finishes two or three inches below the top of your trousers/skirt. Anything with "cape" type sleeves, or batwing sleeves, are good, as they can make your shoulders seem wider/stronger and provide balance to you hips. Make sure that it fits closer around the waist, as in pear shapes this is usually well defined and narrower than the rest of your body. Be sure to not get an oversized one they will simply miss the waist out and create the impression that you are triangular. Blouses work with most shapes to be honest, but one of the best ways to wear them casually is with puffy sleeves (again, they create the illusion of wider shoulders) buttoned just up to the bust with a low necked t-shirt or vest top underneath, which creates the impression of a fuller bust. Any colour or pattern should work well. Tunic style tops that gather at the waist, and belted tops  are good to go on with so you can control how much you emphasize your waist.

The key is to wear shirts that draw the eye toward the face; show off your cleavage with a plunging scoop, rounded, squared or V-shaped neckline. A boldly colored wrap top or draping halter will add volume to your bust line and widen your shoulders. To play up toned shoulders without overwhelming them, choose jackets with subtle shoulder pads or high-cut armholes. Make sure to select a jacket with a defined waist to show off your small tummy and avoid looking boxy. A belted coat or jacket is ideal. This can avoid the possible triangle effect and flaunt your waist at the same time. Also, long coats, finishing between mid-thighs and knees tend to look lovely.
Minimize a pear shape's characteristic assets with slimming down on Hips. A-line silhouette is apt in here, A skirt that falls straight down from the widest part of your hip. A high-waisted straight-leg trouser or dark-wash denim will shorten a longer torso and distract from eyes on to wide hips. If you're petite, avoid leg-shortening trousers like boot cut jeans; taller pears can get away with a slight flare. Steer clear of pockets and decorative embellishments  or eye catching belts that call attention to the hip and thigh area; stick with clean, straight lines for an effortlessly chic look.

To summarize it all up:

Remember  to minimize your lower half and focus attention upward.
DO's:

• DO try a-line skirts, which camouflage wider hips.
• HEM line  of pants, skirts and dresses need to be wide to balance the hips.
• DO remember to  experiment with light-colored tops and dark-colored bottoms for contrast.
• DO look for boat neck tops, square and cowl necklines.
• DO wear strapless, halter dresses to show off arms and even out proportions
• Do Wear anything with a padded shoulder; the extra bulk on the shoulder will balance out the hip width.
• DO try styles with ruffles on top this emphasize the upper half
• DO wear jackets that hit right above the waist.
• DO opt for pointy-toed shoes to elongate your legs
• Remember the GURU MANTRA of A-LINE bottoms
• SHOW OFF the Small waist, by wearing Aline's or Tight Belts yup not on the hips but on the waist.

DON'T wear clothing that draws attention to hips and thighs, such as cargo pants or print skirts.
Avoid skinny or drain pipe like trousers or jeans.

Do Not wear Oversized clothes, they'll add volume make you look out of shape and boxy.

Remember to be Simple, yet be Stylish.