Monday 28 April 2014

Everything You Should Know About Indian Sarees: Drapes

Sarees, One of the Traditional Outfit's From India.  It's a 9yard or 5yard fabric draped around the waist with one end over the shoulder baring the mid riff, usually worn over a petticoat, called lehenga in North, Pavada in South, Parkar or Chaniyo in Gujrat and Maharashtra. Ideally worn with a choli, blouse. It's very graceful and is one of the biggest symbol of Ideal Culture.



As time passed, years after years, cultures have changed and so is the Drape and the fashion in Saree. From 9yards  Kashtaa Sari, To Bengali Drape, to modern 5 yards to eventually the ultra modern Saree Gown. Infact Every Indian Community has its own distinct way of Draping a saree. Not just adorned by Indian Women but by also Hollywood Stars,often spotted in various Award Functions in some of our Drapes.


According to Wikipedia, around 80 Draping Styles have been noted to drape a Saree.


Bengali Style
 1.       Nivi Style: The Most Common and also the traditional way of draping a saree is the one where one end tucked into a petticoat from front and the draped once around the waist and then pleated and formed and tucked in the middle facing left side and then the remaining saree is either pleated or hung over the left shoulder to cover the chest.

2.        Bengali: In  Bengal and Orissa, the saree is draped without pleats. It is wrapped around the waist and brought back to the right side and the pallu is tossed over the left shoulder. Then the pallu is brought from under the right arm and is once again slung over the left shoulder. One can also add a key bunch to the edge to complete this traditional look. Seen in The epic movie Devdas. Starring Ashwariya Rai, as traditional Bengali women.

Gujrati Style
3.       The Gujarati way:  Also known as the seedha pallu, is also seen commonly donned by the women of many northern states like, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Bihar. The first and basic distinction in this style of draping is that here the pleats of the saree face the right, contrary to the others facing left. Also what is distinct about the Gujarati way is that the pallu comes from the backside to the front from the right side. After which it is spread across the chest, and the left edge is tucked in the petticoat at the back. This style works wonders incase your saree has an elaborate border and you want it displayed. Madhuri Dixit's Drape in Didi Tera Dewar Song.

Vidya Balan in Navvari Drape
4.        Kashta/ Navvari:  What’s unusual about draping a saree in the Maharashtra way is that one doesn’t need a petticoat! A nine yard is required, hence the name navvari instead of a usual five-yard sari, the extra length of the saree is drawn up between the legs and worn like a dhoti, and tucked behind at the waist, while the other portion is draped as a pallu over the shoulder or even used to cover the head. Traditionally worn by women in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andra and  even fisher folks of Goa. Lavani Dancers or Vidya Balan in Mala Jau Dey Item Number.

Tamilian Style
Kodagu/ Karnataka Style
5.        Madisar/ Tamilian Way:Like the Maharashtra way, this version also requires a nine-yard saree as opposed to the five-yard one and is worn without a petticoat inside. Once the saree is wrapped around the waist, the pleats are positioned along the left leg and the rest of the saree is taken over the left shoulder, wrapped once again round the waist and tucked on the left side.

6.       Kodagu style: This drape is traditionally confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka,  In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari. Covering the mid riff

Malayali Style
7.        Malayali style/ Mundum Neryathum:  The mundum neryathum is traditionally white or cream in colour and consists of two pieces of cloth, which have a coloured strip at the border known as kara. The piece of cloth that drapes the lower garment is called the mundu. It is worn below the navel and around the hips, similar to the mundu worn by men in Kerala The piece of cloth that is worn as the upper garment is called the neriyathu. One end of the neriyathu is tucked inside the pavadai or petticoat and the remaining long end is worn across the front torso. The neriyathu is worn over a blouse that reaches quite above the breast bone. It is worn diagonally from along the right hips to the left shoulder and across the midriff, partly baring it. The remaining loose end of the neriyathu is left hanging from the left shoulder, A mundum neriyathum is starched before being draped and is worn over a blouse that matches the colour of the border or kara.

8.       Tribal Styles:  Besides the diversity in cullture, we also have many tribes in all the corners of India, each having thier own way of living, draping etc.. One of the common tribal style is the one often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the bust, often wearing without cholis. Goan Gauda and Kunbis,and those of them who have migrated to other states use denthil  way of draping Sari or Kappad,this form of draping is created by tying a knot in the fabric below the shoulder and a strip of cloth which crossed the left shoulder was fasten on the back.  Gond  sari styles is found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body.


The modern india, has a different take on draping the saree with an attitude.

Sonia Gandhi in Crisp Cotton Saree

Adding an oomph with a low waist saree, like our bollywood glam dolls. From decent cuts, to bold, to  halters, to collared, to deep back to deep cleavage showing cuts, Correct Choli adds the oomph and the correct attitude to the saree draped.



 A Saree Drape called Mumtaz Saree  which is  Sharara sari named after Actress Mumtaz for her dance number "Aaj kal tere mere". Sharara, is like a Mermaid Cut skirt, Fitted on the hips and goes A-line from or below the knee. 


Formal wear Sarees are crisp sarees draped in a Nivi, way, with strongly pointed pleats worn with decent no skin show blouses, Our Congress Head, Sonia Gandhi is a perfect example for this look. Hospitality industry made the saree drape even tighter and finely pleated like our Air Hostess from Air India, or The Receiptionist at TAJ, 

The sari has gained its popularity internationally due to the growth of Indian fashion trends globally.



Paris Hilton
Lady Diana, Saree Gown
Saree style gowns are not a very recent innovation. We saw the first gown styles like a saree 2 decades back when Princess of Wales, Lady Diana wore it. The fuchsia coloured gown draped like a saree with a pallu became a rage in the nineties. But slowly, this trend of gowns inspired by the Indian saree style faded away. However, last year, when Paris Hilton arrived in India to launch her handbag store, she wore a pink coloured saree style gown. This brought back the trend of saree gowns styles in motion again. Another exquisite example of gowns that look like a saree was worn by Hollywood celebrity Haydon Panettiere at one of the events in 2012. Saree style gowns basically mimic the fall and drape of a saree. The gowns styled in this way often come with a 'pallu' or a drape handing loose from the shoulders. Even a normal one shoulder gown can be given the look of a saree style outfit if the sleeve is loose like 'pallu'. Singer Shakira has adorned her pregnancy pic in a white color saree gown flaunting her baby bump.



Ashwariya Rai in Sabyasachi Saree at Cannes FilmFestival
Fashion designer Suneet Varma once commented,"The saree is the most versatile garment in the world. It can, with a sweep of the head, be conservative or with a flash of the navel, trendy. If you are going for a prayer meeting, all you need to do is to place the pallu over the shoulders or cover your head with it. The same saree, worn a little low to show off the navel, and teamed up with a backless choli, and show a bit of cleavage, can make you the most elegant woman at a cocktail party.



Designer Shaina NC once commented, "There’s no reason why saris must be worn over a petticoat – I’m wearing mine over trousers. There’s no set rules – take your pleats to the side or over the hip, wear the pallav like a dupatta or try a double or triple sari." 

Designer Sabysachi has got altogether new meaning to modern saree, with celebrities flaunting the traditional weave with a modern look even on international carpets.




The new age saree to the traditional saree, it adorn’s and add’s elegance to a women’s feminity.

No comments:

Post a Comment